I love rack
of veal, but I save it for very special occasions because it’s generally a special-order
cut, and it isn’t cheap. Serves 6.
1 6-rib trimmed
(but not frenched) veal rack with the chine bone removed, 4 to 6 lb. after the chine
and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. vegetable
1/4 medium red
onion, roughly chopped (to yield about 1/2 cup)
1/4 cup capers,
drained and rinsed
1/4 cup fresh
2 Tbs. Dijon
1 large egg
3/4 cup coarse
fresh breadcrumbs, preferably from a baguette or other firm white bread
1/3 cup roughly
chopped fresh tarragon
1/4 cup freshly
grated Parmigiano Reggiano (grated on the small holes of a box grater or on a rasp
(white and green parts), thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)
zest of 1 medium lemon
Remoulade, for serving
a rack of veal: A rack of veal can be a special-order cut, so talk to your butcher
up to a week in advance to be sure it’s available. Ask the butcher to remove the
chine bone, which is the backbone, from the rack so that you can cut between the
ribs when you carve the cooked rack. Also tell the butcher you want the rack completely
trimmed but not frenched (which involves stripping away all the fat, meat, and connective
tissue from the tips of the rib bones). Veal weights can range widely; ask for a
smaller rack if possible.
Let the roast
sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Position a rack in the middle of the oven
and heat the oven to 400°F. Put a roasting rack in a roasting pan or a heavyduty
rimmed baking sheet. (Line the pan with foil for easier clean-up, if you like.)
Season the veal
liberally with salt and pepper on all sides. Turn on the exhaust fan. Heat the oil
in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is very hot, brown the
meat on all sides, including the ends, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the meat
to the roasting rack, meaty side up. Set aside to cool while you prepare the crust.
Purée the red
onion, capers, lemon juice, mustard, and egg in a food processor. The mixture will
be fairly loose.
In a small bowl,
stir the breadcrumbs, tarragon, Parmigiano, scallions, and lemon zest. When the
veal is cool enough to touch, pour the onion purée over the meat, using a spatula
to spread it evenly. Some of the mixture will spill off the roast and into the pan
- that’s fine. Pat the breadcrumb mixture into the onion purée on the top and sides
of the rack of veal, pressing slightly to help the crust adhere.
Roast the veal
until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads
125° to 130°F for medium rare, 55 to 90 minutes, depending on the size of the rack.
(To keep the crust from overbrowning, start checking on the roast after 30 minutes
of cooking; when the crust is golden brown, tent it with a sheet of aluminum foil.)
While the veal is roasting, prepare the rémoulade.
Remove the veal
from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes (it will continue to cook as it rests)
before carving into single chops and serving with the rémoulade. Don’t fret if some
of the crust falls off the meat when you carve.
(per serving): Size: based on 6 servings, Calories (kcal): 380, Fat (kcal): 18,
Fat Calories (g): 160, Saturated Fat (g): 5, Protein (g): 46, Monounsaturated Fat
(g): 7, Carbohydrates (mg): 6, Polyunsaturated Fat (mg): 3.5, Sodium (g): 790, Cholesterol
(g): 210, Fiber (g): 1.